Derived designs from basic styles

Derived designs from basic styles

Derived designs from basic styles


Ankle Strap: Shoe with a strap that fastens around the ankle.



Ballet shoe: Also called ballet slipper, is a lightweight shoe designed specifically for ballet dancing. It may be made from soft leather, canvas, or satin, and has flexible, thin soles. Traditionally, women wear pink shoes and men wear white or black shoes. Women began to dance ballet in 1682, twenty years after King Louis XIV of France ordered the founding of the Royal Academy of Dance. At that time, the standard women’s ballet shoe had heels. After the French Revolution, heels were completely eliminated from standard ballet shoes, as they still are.


Balmoral shoe: In Britain and other countries, the Balmoral is an Oxford with no seams, apart from the toe cap seam, descending to the welt, a style common on boots. A seam not seen as often in shoes as it is in boots, the Balmoral seam, which starts at the vamp and runs horizontally along the length of the quarters to back of the shoe.

The Balmoral boot was designed for Prince Albert as a walking boot. Prince Albert was looking for a walking boot that he could both wear on the grouse moors and which would look stylish indoors as well. 1849, Joseph Sparkes Hall made these boots for Prince Albert, because he was well known and respected at the time and had already invented boots with side elastics for Queen Victoria.


Blucher: A blucher is a style of shoe similar to a Derby. Its vamp is made of a single   piece of leather where eyelet tabs are sewn onto a single piece vamp.

It is named after the 18th century Prussian field marshal Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher. General von Blucher commissioned a boot with side pieces lapped over the front in an effort to provide his troops with improved footwear. This design was adopted by armies across Europe


Boat Shoe: Modern boat shoes were invented in 1935 by American Paul A. Sperry of New Haven, Connecticut after noticing his dog’s ability to run easily over ice without slipping. Using a knife, he cut siping into his shoes’ soles, inspiring a shoe perfect for boating. Boat shoes are typically canvas or leather with rubber soles designed for use on a boat. A siping pattern is cut into the soles to provide grip on a wet deck; the upper is designed water resistance/water repellent leather, and the stitching is highly durable. Boat shoes are traditionally worn without socks. Boat shoes are used by sailors, as the name suggests; however, since the 1970s they have become casual footwear.



Brogue shoe: The Brogue is a style of low-heeled shoe or boot traditionally characterized by multiple-piece, with decorative perforations (or “broguing”) and serration along the pieces’ visible edges.

Brogues are most commonly found in one of four toe-cap styles (full or wingtip or wingcap brogues, semi-brogues, quarter brogues and longwing brogues) and four closure styles (Oxford, Derby, ghillie and monk strap).

The full brogue has a winged toecap, hence the name wingtips. A semi brogue has a straight toecap

  • Quarter brogues:  The toecap comes seam on quarter brogues are lined with decorative perforations, with no other brogueing on the shoe.
  • Semi-brogues – The only brogueing on the shoe is on the seams of the toe cap, vamp, and heel.
  • Full brogues – The perforations decorate the wingtip-like toecap, along the seams and often on the body of the wings which cover the entire shoe.
  • Longwing brogues – Similar to full brogues, except that the wings meet at the back of the shoe, forming a complete circuit of the shoe.


Chelsea boot: These are close-fitting, ankle-high boots with an elastic side panel. They often have a loop or tab of fabric on the back of the boot, enabling the boot to be pulled on. The boot dates back to the Victorian era, when it was worn by both men and women. They’re also very popular in Brazil.



Clogs are a type of footwear made in part or completely from wood. Clogs are used worldwide and although the form may vary by culture. The good examples found date correspondingly from around 1230 and 1280

Traditional clogs remain in use as protective footwear in agriculture and in some factories and mines. Although clogs are sometimes negatively associated with cheap and folkloric footwear of farmers and working class. Some types of clogs are considered as fashionwear today, such as Swedish träskor or Japanese geta.

Clogs are also used in several different styles of dance. When worn for dancing an important feature is the sound of the clog against the floor. This is one of the fundamental roots of tap, but with the tap shoes the taps are free to click against each other and produce a different sound from clogs.

The Oxford English Dictionary defines a clog as a “thick piece of wood”, and later as a “wooden soled overshoe” and a “shoe with a thick wooden sole”.


D’Orsay: (pronounced door-say) Shoe with a closed toe and heel support, but missing the section at waist, revealing the arch of the foot. Though the d’Orsay often in high heel, they can also be a flat. The flat shoes featured low-cut sides that accommodated wider feet and the v-shaped vamp provided a snug fit

The d’Orsay was originally worn by men during the 1800s. They were created by Alfred Guillaume Gabriel, the Count d’Orsay: a prominent noble who had married into aristocracy. The Count was a former soldier with the French military and created the d’Orsay in 1838 as a military shoe..


Espadrille:  Also known as espardenyes are casual, flat, but sometimes high-heeled shoes. They usually have a canvas or cotton fabric upper and a flexible sole made of esparto rope (Grass ropes). The esparto rope sole is the defining characteristic of an espadrille; the uppers vary widely in style. High heel shoes are with wedge heel with a woven rope sole and a fabric upper (often with ankle ties)

The existence of this kind of shoe in Europe is documented since at least 1322.


Ghillie Shoe: It is a low-cut, tongue-less shoe with loops in place of eyelets for the laces, which cross the instep and are sometimes tied around the ankle. Originally worn by the Scots. The term ghillie originated when it was used to describe a soft dance shoe with criss-cross lacing. Scottish ghillies, for example, are worn for traditional Highland dancing. Today, ghillies are a popular alternative to eyelets and are often seen on athletic shoes.

Ghillies are soft shoes, almost always made of a supple leather that forms to the foot. Most dancers use laces   although some ghillies do utilize elastic. Some dancers will also wrap the laces/elastics around the soles of the feet. The soles usually stretch across the entire bottom of the shoe (full-soled) and are made from leather.

Jazz shoe is a type of shoe worn by dancers. They are used in jazz dance and other styles of dance including acro danceacrobatic rock’n’roll, and hip hop, and in other activities, such as aerobics. Jazz shoes are available in a variety of styles, with varying features. They may be high-rise or low-rise, and may be slip-ons or lace-up Oxfords. Most have rubber soles, which provide traction and also help to cushion the foot, and some have thicker heels for better shock-absorption. Some have a suede patch under the ball of the foot to facilitate turning.


Jelly shoes or jellies are shoes made of PVC plastic. Jelly shoes come in a large variety colors and the material is frequently infused with glitter. Its name refers to the semi-transparent materials with a jelly-like sheen. The shoes became a crazy in the early 1980s, when a pair could frequently be purchased for less than one US dollar. Like many other fashion trends from the 1980s, jellies have been revived a number of times since the late 1990s. Although considered a populist shoe in the 1980s, the jelly shoe has been reinterpreted by a number of high-end fashion designers in the early twenty-first century.



Sling back: Shoe with a strap going around the heel.




Mary-Jane: Also known as bar shoes, is an American term  for a closed, low-cut shoe with one or more straps across the instep. Classic Mary Janes for children are typically made of black leather or patent leather, have one thin strap fastened with a buckle or button, a broad and rounded toe box, low heels, and thin outsoles.

Originally worn by both sexes, they began to be perceived mostly for girls in the 1930s in North America and the 1940s in Europe. Children’s shoes secured by a strap over the instep and fastened with a buckle or button appeared in the early 20th century.


Monk: This is a formal leather shoe with a strap across the instep with no lacing, closed by a buckle and strap. It is also known as a monk strap, and has been described as the “most advanced” dress shoe.



Mule: A French word, is a style of shoe that is backless and often closed-toed. Primarily a slipper, “mule” became a backless fashion shoe when a heel was put underneath. This is a slip-on shoe without any straps / ankle support. Mules can be any heel height – from flat to high. The style is predominantly (but not exclusively) worn by women. High-heeled mules were a popular indoor shoe style of the 18th century



Platform shoes are shoes with an obvious thick sole, usually in the range of 3–10 cm. The sole of a platform shoe can have a continuous uniform thickness, have a wedge, a separate block. Apart from the extreme forms of fetish shoes, walking in platform shoes can be cumbersome and clumsy.




T-bar: A shoe with an ankle strap that hooks into a strap running right up the foot creating a ‘T’ shape.




Sandals are an open type of footwear, consisting of a sole held to the wearer’s foot by straps going over the instep and/or around the ankle. Sandals can also have a heel. While the distinction between sandals and other types of footwear can sometimes be difficult, the common understanding is that a sandal leaves most of the upper part of the foot exposed. People may choose to wear sandals for several reasons, among them comfort in warm weather, economy (sandals tend to require less material than shoes and are usually easier to construct), and as a fashion choice.

Usually, people wear sandals in warmer climates or during warmer parts of the year in order to keep their feet cool and dry.


Slipper: Slip-on shoes not designed to be worn outside. Slippers are light easy to put on and off.
The following is a partial list of types of slippers:

  • Open-heel slippers – usually made with a fabric upper layer that encloses the top of the foot and the toes, but leaves the heel open. These are often distributed in expensive hotels, included with the cost of the room.
  • Closed slippers – slippers with a heel guard that prevents the foot from sliding out.



Peep-toe: Shoe with a cut-out section at the toes, revealing a the toes the foot.




Trainer / Sneaker: Shoes supposedly designed for a sport but usually used for posing.






Flip-flop: Flat shoe with a bar that sits between the big and second toes.




Find more styles/types of footwear from the link  “Basic guide to Shoe Styles” by The merry Dress Maker



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