Pattern Area measurement: Manual method – Part 3

Pattern Area measurement: Manual method – Part 3
0 comments, 11/06/2017, by , in Costing
…Continued from Part-2
3. Personal Administration (Approx. in 1951):  During this period the scaling method was scrapped and method of measuring the pattern was introduced. From the past records a relationship between the leather area and the areas of the patterns were determined and a table of percentages were created. To this a further 5% allowance ware added further.
 
Advantages
• Better records were available compared to previous system.
• Direct measurement gives a more scientific approach.
• Easy to apply
Disadvantages
• Each time new leather was introduced, it requires top-level discussion to decide the wastage.
• Leather Grades (quality) were not considered.
• Allowances were based on the average size. 
 
4.  Marking up:  In this system, clicker picks an average skin or hide from a bundle of leather (which is used for a style). The skin is then marked by drawing the patterns onto its surface with cutting principles and quality requirements. Complete pairs are drawn as far as possible. Now, average area is calculated by dividing the area of the skin by the number of pairs marked. Sometimes the skin is marked on the reverse/flesh side so that it can be used without cleaning the marks. In this case a percentage is usually added because of flaws/blemishes that appear on the reverse side.
 
The same method can also use to trace the components on the synthetic material.  A reasonable allowance has to be added to get the correct norms. In this case we have to follow some techniques like..
• Base the layout on straight lines whenever possible.
• Interlock the components for good material saving.
 
Using these guide lines, trace the same component along the width wise. If any wastage occurs on the first row, assume it will also occur on the last row. Multiple layers require additional wastage. Also allow sufficient space between components for placing the press knife. This can be judged by observation and the multilayer cutting loss can be judged by checking with actual work done. This is repeated until a layout of each component is completed. Around 10-12 pairs are drawn and the average consumption is calculated. Then an approximate %ge given as allowance.

 Advantages
• There will be a permanent record of the cutting method used.
• Takes into account of cutting principles and unavoidable waste.
• The allowances calculation can be justified to the cutters.
• The marked skin can be shown to clickers to demonstrate the correct method.
• Future selection of the leather could be compared with marked skin.
Disadvantages
• A skilled and trustworthy cutter is required to do the mark-up.
• It can be time consuming particularly if there are many patterns in the shoe set.
• It may not truly estimate the cutting method (e.g. a cutter may cut more vamps or quarters from single side/hide rather than to cut complete pairs).
• It is usually not linked to a leather grading system or shoe size adjustment. So individual cutting jobs may yield different results.
• No real average skin.
…Continue  Part-3

 

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