Pattern Area Measurement: Manual methods – Part 1

Pattern Area Measurement: Manual methods – Part 1
0 comments, 11/06/2017, by , in Costing

Pattern Area Measurement: Manual methods

Before making a shoe, it is important to find the consumption of materials, mainly for uppers.  Also the consumption is required to control the clicker’s cutting values. It is very important to get an accurate value, because of following reasons:

  1. The upper is the single largest item in the total shoe cost.
  2. The profitability of the company depends on accurate costing.
  3. The consumption values of clickers can be used as a basis for payment, based on “Leather saved” against the values given to the clicker.


The pattern area calculation also called ‘Calculating norms’.
Over the period there were number method evolved for estimating the amount of material required for uppers. As the time moves, new methods introduced to find the accurate results. 

The following factors will affect the leather/material consumption calculations.

• Area of pattern: Area and shape of the pattern will determine the waste.
• Size and shape of the leather/material to be cut.
• The effect of different requirements on the area like tightness, quality etc.

Below are the list of method systems that used in approximate historical order for Manual Methods  

1. Check Method- weight
2. Hall’s Scaling Board
3. Personnel Administration
4. Marking up
5. Square Board method
6. Graphical
7. Rubber band method.
8. Scientific Leather Measuring method
9. Russ and Small method

1. Check method – Weight: In this method, a bundle of leather to be cut are weighed and weight of the uppers cut from that leather are noted. The difference will give the waste in percentage. This method this depends on the human element. So, it must be repeated with several operators to get an average value. 

• Very simple method.
• Easy to calculate
• Quality points are not concerned
• The biggest dis-advantage is, norms will be calculated only after cutting the actual components.

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