Pattern Area measurement: Synthetic
RSM process for material consumption calculation: For calculating pattern area we have to arrange the patterns in a sequence to get better interlocking. The objective is to get a parallelogram with the patterns including interlocking waste.
Patterns can be arranged in two ways to make the parallelogram. They are.
- 00 method
The degree i.e. 0o or 180o tells, whether the patterns while making parallelogram are placed in the same direction as the first one i.e. at 0o or rotated by 180o. The assessor must make a judgment as to which is the most economical interlock.
a) Draw a straight line on the pattern.
b) Mark one or two location points for references on the circumference of the pattern
c) Always use the same side when tracing i.e. the pattern should not be turned over.
Pattern Scaling For 00 Method.
Steps are as follows:
1. Keep the pattern to be traced on the graph paper in such a way that the line on the pattern is aligned with the line on the paper
2. Trace the pattern and mark the location points.
3. The 2nd tracing is drawn in the same way as first pattern in the same direction (i.e. without rotating). Second pattern should touch the first pattern at least at two possible points.
4. To trace the 3rd pattern, the pattern is rotated by 180 and it must touch 1st & 2nd patterns at least at one point, in either direction, aligning the centerline. The location points and number is marked.
5. The 4th tracing will be same as no.3 and it must touch 1 & 3 or 2 & 3 at least at two points and mark the location points.
6. The 5th pattern is again rotated by 180 i.e. in the same direction as no.1. It should touch 3 & 4 at least two points.
7. The 6th tracing must face the same direction as No.5 and touch 4 & 5 or 3 & 5 at least at two points.
The sequence is repeated until a nest of interlocking patterns is produced that has four patterns facing in the same way. A parallelogram is drawn with similar points on the four patterns. The area of the parallelogram will give the area of the pattern area with unavoidable interlocking waste. This is the smallest area from which the pattern can be cut. Each pattern item in the shoe set is measured in this way.
1. Up to 2nd step will be same as 0o
2. The pattern is then rotated through exactly 180oand interlocked with the first pattern. Mark the location points on the tracing and mark the trace as no.2.
3.It is again rotated through 180oand a third pattern is drawn so that it touches both 1 & 2 at least at two points in either direction.
4.Interlock the fourth tracing. This should be interlocked with either 1 & 3 or 2 & 3, but should touch any of them at least at two points. Trace round and mark the location point and number this trace as no.4
5.The fifth trace must face in the same direction as no.1 and should touch 2 & 4 at least at one point each. It must face the two tracing in opposite direction. Mark the location point and no. as 5.
6. The sixth trace faces the same way no.5 and should touch 2 & 5 or 4 & 5,location point is marked and it is numbered as 6. Thus we have ended up with 4 tracings in the same way and two in the opposite direction.
A parallelogram is drawn using the points on four patterns as corners of the parallelogram.
Pattern Scaling For Symmetrical Synthetic & Textiles.
1. Draw a centerline on the pattern. This will be the reference line and the two end points are as location points.
2. Lay the pattern to be traced down on the graph paper in such a way that the line on the pattern is aligned with the line on the paper.
3. Trace round the pattern and mark as no.1. Location points are also marked.
4. Rotate the pattern by 1800 and placed with 2 mm gap with the 1st patter.
5. Again the pattern is rotated by 180o and following the same rule 3rd pattern is traced and location points are marked.
Then parallelogram is made with the 1st and 3rd patterns considering the location points of these patterns as four corners of the parallelogram. The area of the parallelogram is calculated which gives “ scale pattern area” of that particular pattern.