Springing and other ways of pattern development – Part 1

Springing  and  other ways of pattern development – Part 1

Springing and other ways of pattern development – Part 1

1.0 Introduction :  This article explains the importance of the springing and how the springing will be done for individual pieces/standard . Also this document explains how shoe pieces are created/unfolded an axis using other than  center axis.

2.0 Springing:  Springing of pattern is a pattern cutting technique by which patterns are raised or dropped below the natural center plane.

The best fitting pattern, from the lasting and general shoe-making viewpoint, are ones that have distorted as little as possible, have been removed from last and flattened in  a carefully controlled manner, to take up their most natural position.

Springing will be applied to shoe pieces which are at instep area, where the profile of the last is very curvy.  The best fitting pattern for this area would retain this curved profile in the form of central vamp with seam.. It is often to remove the need of center seem that patterns are sprung.

Springing may also necessary in other areas also..example: boot back strap, tongue etc.,

2.1 Spring completed standard :  It is simpler to sprung the standard/mean rather than individual pattern

s. Springing the mean/standard causes unnecessary distortion  of profiles/shoe.

 

Springing the complete standard to a limit, will solve few problems. But extreme springing the standard w

ill not solve the problem completely..

Generally springing of standard will done, when the shoe has a full vamp ( 1 piece)..best example is 1 piece court shoe or ¾ court shoe..

 

2.2. Springing full vamp :  Some times the vamp extends above the vamp point (tongue attached, this area will more curvy). If the vamp is unfolded using this center line, it will not fit on to the last, due to loss of material at tongue region.

 

In this case the shoe piece is sprung partiality, so that the curvy shape is turned on to straight center line

 

2.3 Boot tongue springing: In case of boots, generally the tongue is a separate pieces. The tongue area will be more curvy and it is very difficult to produce this pieces. So this pieces is sprung to a straight axis to unfold it easily.

 

 

 

 

2.4. Moccasin springing: Moccasin is a special type shoe, where the upper leather runs from bottom to top.

The vamp shoe piece will run from bottom to top. This vamp piece is prepared using pieces from  side and bottom patterns.

In general the side patterns are placed at some key points of  bottom and the side pieces are sprung or rotated around the bottom piece.

 

And the final vamp piece/pattern looks like

 

Continue….Springing and other ways of pattern development – Part 2

About FutureFootwear

Leave a reply translated

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.