Springing and other ways of pattern development -Part 2

Springing  and  other ways of pattern development -Part 2

Springing and other ways of pattern development -Part 2

3.0 Other ways of  folding patterns: Normally all the shoe pieces are unfolded using the center axis. For shoe pieces at heel area.They will be unfolded using a axis at counter. But in few cases the shoe pieces are need to unfolded using other axis.

3.1. Tongue : Most of the cases tongue is attached to the vamp. But in few cases tongue has to made separately, this is because

of

  1. Restrictions in design/manufacturing
  2. To save material.

Tongue generally lies in between vamp point and instep point.

So if the tongue is a separate piece, it need to be  unfolded using a different axis to get 3D effect of the shoe…

In the above design, the tongue is mirrored  using with different axis (blue) other than normal center axis (red). For low heel last it may mirrored using the center axis, but for high heel last and highly curved cone last , a different exist other than center is required.

 

 

3.2. Quarter strap. :  Consider a case where the strap is running from inner/outer. Even though quarter Pattern has developed from side, the strap potion has to be unfolded using the different axis (as of tongue).Here the strap has been unfolded using the a different axis (dotted line).another example is saddle

 

 

3.3 Padding/Collar piece

Normally shoe pieces lying at heel/counter area mirrored using a different axis. This to form the back-area f the shoe to follow the last.

 

3.4.Heel grip/counter:

In the same way the axis for creating/unfolding the Hell grip (counter lining)/counter are different. Red axis refers to counter axis

 

 

3.5 Toe piece/Mud guard : In general toe pieces are unfolded using the center axis. 

In the above example, toe piece/mudguard has been unfolded with center axis.. this shoe has lasting margin.. so the upper will be pulled and stuck to the insole on the last to form the last shape..

But for some type of shoes, where there is no lasting margin (strobe constructions), the upper is stitched with insole and the last is forced in to it. If the toe shoe piece is unfolded by above method, it will not follow the last profile.

In this case the upper pieces has to be unfolded using a different axis.

 

In other cases also if the last is more curved, then also this shoe piece need to be unfolded using a different axis.

 

 

 

 

3.6. Boot vamp piece (crimping piece)

Consider ankle boot of design shown the picture.  Developing a vamp piece for this shoe is very difficult, even though after springing, the vamp will not fit on exactly on the last and leaves folds at instep region .

To avoid this, the vamp piece is cut roughly and it will be go under a process called (crimping). Here the machine forms the 2D vamp leather piece into 3D shape. After this the shoe piece is trimmed to get actual piece… i.e 3D shoe piece.

After doing crimping the shoe piece is folded along the curved line, and the side vamp (halves) are kept on it and the shoe pieces will be trimmed (second image).

 

3.7. Boot Padding piece:

This shoe pieces is generally lies at the top of the boot. This is a typical shoe piece, which covers both upper and lining. This is filled with foam

The shoe pieces/pattern is mirrored twice.

  1. Using axis at back
  2. Using axis at top

 

 

 

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